Czech Republic

    PRAGUE

      If you're going to Europe and NOT going to Prague, first off, you're a jerk. OK, that was harsh. Sorry I called you a jerk. But really, get there. Prague is the best place in all of Europe and I count myself lucky to have spent so much time there and with such good people. You can see Kafka's grave, Der Golem, medieval torture museums, great art galleries, castles, two separate Mucha museums, and see baffled tourists and locals alike look totally lost on every corner.
     The architecture has an old and almost sinister vibe, and unlike any city I've ever known built on a boring-ass grid, Prague is a disorienting series of spirals that you can only give in to and get lost in. And there's an overarching vibe of something creepy and sinister that you can't ever put your finger on, like the city itself is alive and watching you wind your way through its maze. In a word too often misused, it's truly Kafkaesque.

The New Jewish Cemetery in Žižkov 

 Old Town, Staré Město, Praha 1

  

View of Mala Strana

 

Old Jewish Cemetery

Dancing Building

But I digest. More Czech travel tips later. Now about that vegan food...

     The old Prague favorite, lifesaver and winner by a long shot is Country Life. CL started out as a real underdog in 1991, as the sole health food wholesaler in the entire Czech Republic. Today, it is the best-known veg restaurant around and still a health food store too (and a supplier to other places that have since started getting in on the action).
     The restaurant is buffet style and by weight (if you know Le Commensal in Toronto or Montreal, it's something close to that) and they always have a great spread of salads, proteins, fresh juices and great desserts. Last time we were there, we spotted Wife's real boyfriend Krispin Glover dressed all in black, with a briefcase, taking in the Country Life. Anyone know how to say "Biff, you get your damn hands off of her!" in Czech?

 (Pilfered from the Internet. Thanks Internet!)

     Also, be sure to check out Lehka Hlava A.K.A. Clear Head (LINK). This vegetarian restaurant with a one of a kind design and atmosphere can be found in a fairytale-esque building built in 1410 located in Old Town, Borsov 2/280, Prague 1. Their menu is also as eclectic as the decor. Be sure to ask about their daily specials.

A very satisfied customer

Hangin' outside Clear Head

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Now, some other good stuff to add to your Czech List.
See what I did there?

REKOMANDO BOOKS & RECORDS (Prague 2)

      Check out Rekomando, our friends' lovingly stocked lefty book and record store in their new location in Prague 2. They have great editions of books, and the widest selection of used and new records punk & hc records to be found in Prague.

 Site (CZ) / More Info

CESKY KRUMLOV

     For the love of Pete, man - get yourself to Český Krumlov in the South Bohemian Region. It takes a few trains and a few hours but you'll see one of the oldest untouched cities in Europe (13th Century) which survived time, war and destruction throughout all these centuries by its unassuming position in the mountain ranges and features Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture all in the same place and still intact. And if you're a badass, get some friends and jump in the Vltava River. But be forewarned, boys - as illustrated below, your nards will shrink (Mladek not included).

 

Quick dip in the river

 A little nap after a long day of good times.

 Train ride home

     When in Czesky Krumlov stop in at Laibon (LINK), a vegetarian restaurant located in a stone house that dates back to the 1500's. Head out to the back and enjoy your meal overlooking the river and the city. Unfortunately I cannot find my photos. I actually shot them on film when I went, so you will just have to check out the website. Photos, Menu

 One more stop before heading home.....

Kutná Hora

Located in the central Bohemia region and built around 1142, this beautiful town boasts one of the most interesting Ossuaries in the world - Sedlac Ossuary, also know as the Church of Bones. Located beneath the Cemetery Church of All Saints in Sedlec, a suburb of Kutna Hora, it is artistically decorated with more than 40,000 human bones. Rumor has it that the task of stacking the bones was given to a half blind monk. Around 1870, woodcarver František Rint was hired to organize the bones and here are the results.  This has nothing to do with veganism but is a definite must-see. -B

 

Rise Above Bakery (St. Catherines ONT)

(above photo courtesy of Rise Above site)

     Nestled somewhere 'twixt Niagara Falls and the wreckage of the tall ship off the QEW, a brave young man is listening to his spirit guide (Eagle? Wolf? Badger?) and going solo with his vision of making delectable vegan treats in a town not known for it's vegan options (like having any, at all)...

 ...Your host, Kyle Paton Esq. 

     Kyle is one of those rare kind of eccentric vegan punk kids (Jah Bless them) who gets grandiose notions in their head like we all do, but then somehow makes them actually happen in real life, against all odds. Kyle opened Rise Above in a tiny space off of a back alley in downtown St. Catherines a few years ago, hosting monthly dinners and honing his superb ability to make vegan donuts and desserts. And we're not talkin' about your vegan hippy-ass, sawdust-tastin', no-egg-replacer-usin', good for nothin' date squares...we're talkin 'bout some real down and dirty shit: Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups, Brownies, Blondies, Chocolate Croissants, Cinnamon Buns and what is probably their most killer move (and Le Wife's fave) - chocolate or cherry cheesecake in a mason jar. And the donuts, as always, are killer.

 Ginger Balls approves this message!

     His new location is a full-sized restaurant with a complete menu. If you have the means and live in Southern Ontario, make the trip. If you are from further out and passing through  anywhere between  Buffalo and Toronto or east of it, look Rise Above up and call ahead so they know you're coming. It's seriously worth it. Is 'Scrumdiddleyicious' even a word? Well that's between you and your Spirit Guide. 

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More info & contact: Rise Above Site
Check out their Sunday Brunches
Check out their Menu 
Location/Directions

Soul Vegetarian (Chicago - Atlanta - DC)

     It's interesting to see how a lot of food is still regional, both culturally and geographically. Such is still the case with real-deal American soul food. Collards, kalebone, popcorn chicken, things I'd never have been exposed to even the original version of, let alone a healthy vegan one. They don't seem to cross the border into the Great White North. Soul Veg is...what's a nice way to say, off the beaten cracker-ass path? Not located near a Starbucks? No Wi-fi?

     Soul Vegetarian has been saving my vegan ass on the US road for over a decade. The three locations I've always frequented are the Chicago, DC and Atlanta ones, although looking into it now it seems there are Soul Veg's in Tallahassee, Houston and a host of cities internationally from Israel to Africa and West Indies. And in a related story, they represent a branch of the African Hebrew Israelites (it's complicated, go HERE for the long version). Like Rastafarians, I can't say I agree altogether with their idea of what is and isn't sexually "natural", but I like their approach to food. Wanna stick to that? Great idea! 

     Just one quick ramble, though:

     Historically, the places with the highest percentage of centenarians in the world have been poor rural farming communities - people who worked in fields and whose diet consisted mainly of the foods that were most economic to grow - greens and grains such as rice, which are easy to digest and full of iron, minerals and vitamins. Ironically, when you look at the foods that poorer people (of any stripe) have traditionally had the most immediate access to, there is less processing or additives and a lot of nutrition...potentially. By contrast, old school soul food - born out of the slavery era - was starchy, fatty and high in calories, comfort food that suited the needs of someone working long hours of forced labor. As a diet though, it left a whole generation of people at abnormally high risk of diabetes, strokes and heart attacks. 

     As most purists will argue, making soul food healthy, without lard, is taking it out of context. I'm sure not in any position argue with that. But then, the context was slavery. Being safely out of that era, why associate a healthy approach with gentrification? Why would you carry forward the detrimental part of the tradition rather than tailoring it to do the best for the bodies and minds of the people eating it? This is Soul Vegetarian's mandate, and I like it. 

Favorites: 

Atlanta: Country Fried Steak, Mac & Cheese and Broccoli. LINK - MAP

DC: Breakfast Wraps (weekends only sucker!)  LINK - MAP

Chicago: BBQ Protein Tidbits, BBQ Twist Sandwich. MENU - MAP

*Honorable Mention: If you're in DC, another great spot just down the street from SV is Everlasting Life  (LINK). The mac & cheese will blow your mind.

CC